Or, how not to drive on one-way-roads.

Some cities, predominately newer cities, follow a logical and well laid out city plan. Generally these consist of a series of boulevards and major highways to handle bulk commuter traffic,  a set of well maintained connecting roads to allow the convenient flow of travel between, and lots of parking spaces decidedly off the major roads. Paris has none of these things; at least not in any obvious or recognizable fashion. The one thing Paris does have is a very decent and well maintained bypass or peripheral road known as ‘La Peripherique’ which lets you conveniently and efficiently skip the entire city while on your way somewhere. Oddly, this is about the only road we didn’t go on while passing through.

It’s not that we missed it, took a wrong turn or simply forgot. Instead we decided (call it for ‘flavour’, ‘the experience’ or ‘the challenge’) to navigate the middle of Paris using a woefully under-detailed map, a poor sense of preservation of sanity and no GPS. At 3 in the morning. After driving for nearly 8 hours, and after working most of the previous day. Let’s put it down as a weakness in judgement.

Some advice for those seeking to cross Paris by car: don’t. If you really must do so, then do it East/West rather than North/South. The reason I say this is that like many ancient cities, Paris was built along a major river: the river Seine, which means there’s only a certain number of crossings available. Granted, we were headed straight through the middle so our choices were somewhat more limited, but it did leave some annoying questions about how to actually get across. Secondly, because it was built along a river the roads in the centre of the city are very narrow, and very convoluted. To help reduce the traffic that would be sure to build up on such roads, many, if not most of them are one way. This leads to the very interesting situation where you can actually lay eyes upon your destination, but due to inconvenient road design, the only way to get there is by going a kilometer or two out of your way. This was exactly our problem with getting across the river since we knew exactly where the bridge was but to get to it required traversing half a dozen small cobblestone connecting roads to avoid construction works and one way streets.

The other issue with traversing Paris, or in reality any city you’re not particularly familiar with, is the fact that at some point most of the signage begins to relate to important cultural sites or monuments: and when you have little, if any idea what geographical relationship these sites may hold to one another, it can lend its self to being more confusing rather than less. Unfortunately in many cases a roadmap simply doesn’t do these sites justice or give you any bearing on their locations.

All in all it was interesting driving around blindly Paris, and rendered slightly more tolerable by the fact we were doing it early in the morning before most sane people were awake. That said, I don’t think I’d go out of my way to do it again.

 

At least 15% of the interior electrics had been replaced with house cable when I bought this, which is very low for a French car.

As I pointed out in an earlier post, I used to live in France; Normandie to be exact, for almost 5 years. During that time I owned a few different cars, and drove thousands of kilometers across the country regularly, culminating in a massive road trip covering Spain, Italy and most of France with my then girlfriend during the months of May & June. The scale of that trip wasn’t the same as this one for many reasons, not least of which the fact that my car in those days was French, and we took a longer time to complete it.

Except for a short overnight trip to Lille with some friends in my Saab last year, I’d never actually driven an English car in France before. It’s a very odd experience. As a cardinal rule, the French secretly don’t really like the English that much. All English people are lumped into the group of ‘Les Anglais’, and shown similar levels of respect on the road – not something that I’m used to as a holder of a driving license with “République Francaise Permis de Conduire” in big letters on the front. In fact, during the time I lived in France I treated Les Anglais the same way any other French driver did – with sheer contempt – so this is most likely some sort of karmic effect finally coming around to bite me.

This does not belong in a car.

Driving here is stressful in an English car; tailgating and general asshole-ish behaviour is the norm. I should point out here, that it’s only tailgating in France if you’d struggle to fit a piece of paper between the cars.

A few hundred km into the journey on this side of the channel got me back into my old groove of driving like a French person, which decreased the stress induced by driving here dramatically, and I’m sure caused a few confused looks on the faces of French drivers as they were about to vocalize their distaste.

A few pointers should you ever be in France and are getting tired of all the French drivers treating you like something slightly lower on the food-chain than pond-scum; written from the French perspective:

  • From a town sign to the cross on a town sign, the speed limit is 50km/h unless another speed is posted after the town sign. The accepted minimum speed to drive in a 50 is 55. 60 is preferrable, but, the points are yours to lose if there is a Gendarme radar trap.
  • You should stop at pedestrian crossings, but stopping at every single pedestrian crossing there is within 10km will result in death-glares, tailgating and sometimes profuse quantities of annoying horn sounds.
  • Riding the white line between lanes will piss off all of the motorcyclists. Keep an eye on your mirrors and move over when they are approaching. You’ll receive a grateful foot-kick thank-you and feel better about yourself. Why a foot-kick I hear you asking? It’s quite simple, Europe drives on the right and overtakes on the left, the throttle on a motorbike is on the right, so, to be able to say thank-you without removing a hand from the go-handle, it’s much simpler to kick out a foot in gratitude.
  • Braking for every corner is unacceptable, and will result in tailgating and death-glares; learn the basics of how to judge the tightness of a bend, and practice good car control. Lightly riding the brake pedal ‘just in case’ is exceptionally annoying for drivers who might be following you, and will result in tailgating and death-glares.
  • On autoroutes, when overtaking, it is best keep an eye on your mirrors; the speed limit may very well be 130, but this loosely translates to between 140 and 150 depending on how much traffic is around. For optimum results, when you’re 6″ past the car you’re overtaking pull sharply across the front of it into the right-most lane. If the driver of the car you have overtaken was French, the response will be unflinching. Doing this with foreign cars may vary the results and could conceivably cause spectacular swerving followed by loud noises, and sometimes accompanied by explosions and fire. Obviously, if you’re fully immersing yourself in the French Driving Style, you’ll have refocused your gaze on the next vehicle you intend to run down, and will not notice the carnage erupting behind you.
  • When travelling fast on the autoroute and overtaking many vehicles, you will sometimes meet a slower car in front that has not moved back into the right hand lane. The best approach to take here is to speed up to 160km/h, and begin a fast and aggressive closure on the vehicle in question. Should the car still show no sign of pulling back into the right hand lane, it is acceptable to put your left indicator on to reinforce the fact that you will be overtaking, and that they should get out of your way. If this results in no action, continue at your speed and course until you are no more than 5 meters away from the car in front before applying liberal braking until your distance has closed to 15cm (with a view to possibly boarding their vehicle via the boot to politely ask that they get out-of-the-way), then simply alternate between straddling the white line between the two lanes and giving the driver death glares while flashing your high beams.
  • Sometimes, a string of cars will be in the left lane, overtaking nothing, and maintaining a slow speed. This can usually be attributed to a caravan or truck overtaking something far in the distance. Gather your courage, and aggressively switch to the right lane while developing a death grip on the steering wheel and making an annoyed snorting sound, perhaps accompanied by a number of expletives directed towards whichever nationality you presume the vehicle in the distance to be. Check that you can see no sign of the Gendarmerie on the road, then quickly undertake as many cars as you can before arriving at the obstruction. Once there, casually barge back into the left hand lane between the other vehicles.

The most important things to note:

  • Brake checking someone who is tailgating you will result in an accident at high-speed, and you will be killed.

Hopefully you were able to detect most of the sarcasm in the above passages, but make no mistake, these are all valid manoeuvres that you will experience while travelling on french roads.

On a truly serious note, the best piece of advice I can give is this:

  • Stop signs in France do actually mean “stop”. Stopping is defined as “being stationary for a minimum of 3 seconds”. Gendarmes are most happy to pull you over for failing to adhere to this little known rule, and will shower you with demands for cash prizes – payable immediately since you are foreign.
So, have you driven in Europe and encountered the above? Tell us about it in the comments!
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